Geyser Repair vs Replacement: Decision Guide for SA Homeowners

Geyser failures rarely come at a convenient time. Here's a clear decision framework so you don't overspend on repairs to a tank that's already on borrowed time.

Step 1: How old is the geyser?

Find the SANS plate near the bottom of the unit. It lists the manufacture date.

• Under 5 years: almost always worth repairing.
• 5–8 years: repair if cost is under 30% of replacement.
• 8+ years: replace. Repairing buys you 6–18 months at best.
• 10+ years: replace immediately even if it still works — insurance often won't cover damage from a unit past warranty.

Step 2: What failed?

Symptom	Likely cause	Typical repair cost
No hot water, breaker trips	Burnt element	R900 – R1,800
Lukewarm only	Faulty thermostat	R700 – R1,400
Hot water runs out fast	Dip-tube broken or thermostat	R900 – R1,800
Discoloured / smelly water	Anode rod corroded	R600 – R1,200
Visible leak from tank seam	Tank failure	REPLACE
Leak from drip tray (small)	PRV or vacuum breaker	R800 – R1,500
Constant drip from overflow	Faulty PRV	R900 – R1,800

Step 3: Cost-of-repair rule

If the repair cost exceeds 30% of a new installed unit (~R9,000–R12,000 for a 150L electric), replace. You're paying full replacement labour twice within 18 months otherwise.

When replacement is mandatory

• Tank seam leak (no fix exists)
• Geyser older than 12 years on coast / 15 years inland
• Insurance claim — most insurers require SANS 10254-compliant replacement, not repair
• Switching to solar or heat pump

Don't forget the COC

Any geyser swap requires a Certificate of Compliance from a PIRB-registered plumber. Verify yours here before signing off the job.

See full geyser replacement costs by type.